A few days in San Miguel is like a magic tonic that sharpens
the senses at the same pace it eases you into the slow lane. The only things moving fast are the wings of
the hummingbird I’m watching through the open veranda doors. The terrace walls are dripping with
bougainvillea, and the giant terra cotta pots sprinkled about are bursting with
color.
Our long-time friends, Barbara and David, have set up
residence in this bucolic, way south-of-the-border town. Founded centuries ago, San Miguel de Allende
is a charming city of narrow cobblestone streets, beautiful churches, and warm
hues of brick and stone buildings. The
markets, plazas and jardins are always busy, filled with locals and tourists
alike. Everyone mingles, everyone offers
a friendly greeting, and the air is charged with life. New smells are offered up as you walk past vendors. I haven’t been tempted or brave enough to try
any street food except for the ice cream – la lima – delicioso!
Barbara and David are true locals and know all the best
restaurants and where to shop. Their wide
circle of friends, artists, musicians and actors include many fellow Americans
(all ex-pats) and Mexican residents as well.
David plays in a band (his brain child) and Barbara belongs to several
acting groups doing a bit of everything from improv to miming. This wonderful group of folks has made us
feel quite included and welcome.
San Miguel is steeped in a rich history of family, religious
rites, celebrations, and revolution. The
Virgin of Guadalope is the symbol of all that is holy and good, and her image
emblazes everything from shopping bags to stained glass. There are daily celebrations of parades and fireworks
following the religious calendar. It
takes a few days to sleep though the boom of fireworks that begin at midnight
on the eve of the honored birthday of any given saint or national hero….and
there are hundreds of saints and heroes.
Some obviously don’t rate as high as others…say Christopher Columbus. The only quiet night we had was Oct. 13….eve
before Columbus Day. The word’s out - he wasn’t
such a nice guy after all. Then there’s Ignacio Allende (hence the Allende of San Miguel de Allende), Captain of the Mexican Army
who led the downtrodden masses in the revolution against Spain. Caught and beheaded, his legend lives on in
the hearts of every Mexican. During the
huge Independence Celebration, canons are fired, dancing and music fill the
streets, and fireworks light the sky all night.
Festival de los Locos, to celebrate the arrival of spring, is a huge
favorite with most persons.
In age-old tradition,
men dress as women, dancing and music fill the streets, and my favorite, the Mojigangas
(stilt-walkers) parade with their
elaborate, enormous puppet-like costumes.
Oh, to be in San Miguel on a festival day!
We’ve got five days to take it all in. Hurry up to slow down. There’s the market (I’m addicted), the churches,
the hot springs, art galleries, botanical gardens, scenic drives, parties,
breakfast engagements, lunch engagements, dinner plans, and open houses. In between, we soak up the sunshine; wander
the narrow streets and mill around el jardin.
It’s all good.
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